On June 6 I packed up everything at the 4,000m camp and skied down to basecamp with an atrociously heavy backpack. On Denali, on the other hand, pampering is only available to the uber rich, all camps are on snow, all water must be laboriously melted from snow, and all the heavy loads one must carry oneself.Growing up in Seattle, which in many ways is a portal between Alaska and the rest of the contiguous US, I often heard older friends talking about their expeditions to the Central Alaska Range. By this time, even though I had yet to ever climb the Cassin, I had raised my goals in accordance with my accrued experience, and we set our sights on the speed record. I remember on my first waterfall climbing trip to Lillooet, Mark Bunker and I were preparing for a cold night of car camping below the climb “Nightingale,” and chuckled at Don Serl’s words in the guidebook about our campsite: “This is a cold, dark, and inhospitable place to consider camping in the winter… Consider it training for the Cassin!” Among me and my climbing friends, “training for the Cassin,” became the de-facto excuse for all sorts of ridiculous things that we did, and situations that we found ourselves in.
While this sort of experience isn’t for everyone (and nearly everyone is happy to spend some time in warmer, more lush environments after a few weeks on Denali! Nick, a friend from Squamish, has a strong background in technical climbing, and most of our early outings together were on steep rock. In reality I am much more conservative than many people would imagine, and while I do like to sometimes “push the boat out,” I only do so when the boat has been meticulously prepared and everything indicates that the seas will stay calm. I didn’t even note exactly what time I got back to the 4,000m on the West Buttress (where I had left a full camping setup), but I think it was somewhere around 7:00pm.At the base of Denali’s south face, at the head of the East Fork of the Kahiltna, I had left not only a full camping setup, but also skis, ski boots, skins, and a satellite phone. Although I was disappointed about Scott’s decision in the moment, I didn’t regret it a few hours later upon discovering that our stove was drastically malfunctioning. For the second portion of the trip we turned our attention to Denali, acclimatizing on the West Buttress and waiting for a moment to try again a speed record on the Cassin. If I had been there alone with no tracks I would’ve surely gone to the right, but in my haste to make good time I simply followed the tracks rather than think about the route finding for myself.
IRATA. Skiing up the East Fork by myself with a bunch of fresh snow on the glacier was the scariest part of my expedition, and in many places I went well out of my way to take the most conservative possible route. http://www.colinhaley.com/solo-attempt-on-north-buttress-of-begguya/In 2016 I climbed Denali once more while acclimatizing for the Infinite Spur (http://www.colinhaley.com/infinite-spur-laps/), my thirteenth time to the summit of North America’s peak. This was a pretty major route-finding mistake. Despite being very tired from my ascent of the Cassin, I was very eager to ski back up the East Fork as soon as possible, before new snow fell (and therefore be able to follow my earlier tracks).
We spent 5 days wasting away in Talkeetna, unfortunately sampling some of Talkeetna’s incredibly overpriced food, but fortunately hanging with our good friend Mark Westman. We took one rest day, and headed up high again on June 2, this time via the West Buttress.
For fear of crevasses, I definitely was not excited to ski up the East Fork of the Kahiltna by myself, particularly as I’d never been in that valley at all before. Nick’s dedication to cardio training has of course meant less time doing technical climbing, and living in Squamish it is difficult to log time on real alpine terrain. Denali’s Cassin Ridge, in particular, seemed to be a very storied route. Photo by Nicholas Gantz.Near the top of the Second Rock Band. Various rescue courses. Wind turbines. Although the summit of Denali is only 6,155 meters, I think the altitude on the summit of Denali feels roughly equivalent to 6,500 meters in Nepal.
Vous remarquerez comme la personne qui descends en marchant va beaucoup moins vite. Rope access training for all IRATA levels. http://www.colinhaley.com/kahiltna-2011-easy-peak-bagging-and-single-push-failures/In 2012 I made a near-miss solo attempt on the north buttress of Begguya, and afterwards I met up in basecamp with my friend Nick Elson, for yet another trip up Denali, again hoping to do a fast time on the Cassin. Blog; Gallery; About me; Cassin Ridge Speed Solo. After some extensive acclimatization (in which I slightly improved my roundtrip time from the 4,000m camp – 6:37), we made the 5th ascent of the Denali Diamond in two days.I returned to Denali in 2010 with Norwegian Bjørn-Eivind Årtun. The Japanese Couloir was not in ideal condition, as it was mostly hard ice and other times I have seen more nevé in it, but it was not in terrible condition either. However, what you save in money you make up for in hard work. Stopping the clock 8 hours and 7 minutes after crossing the bergschrund at the base of the Japanese Couloir.A screenshot of the GPS track that I made on my iPhone, starting when I left my bivy on the East Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier, and ending when I returned to the 4,000m camp. After down-climbing most all of the lower West Rib, we stopped on a ledge near the bottom of the Chicken Couloir to take a nap and wait for cooler temperatures.
This blog post is finally making it online 3 months after the fact…], the highest mountain in North America. ), but we had lost so much time at the beginning of our expedition that we knew we needed to acclimatize as fast as possible if there was to be any chance still of climbing the Slovak route.
In addition, Denali’s far northern latitude makes it much colder than an equivalent altitude in the Himalaya or Karakoram – temperatures on Denali are more comparable to 8,000m peaks. Supervision and documentation. We made a descending traverse across the upper southwest face to return to the 4,000m camp. It was always justified as “training for the Cassin!”In 2003 I finally made my first trip to Denali, skipping my high school graduation in order to do so.
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